The screwstringer was a great idea for enhanced tuning stability and eliminating a pin block. When it comes to fixing a broken string or screw, or finding a replacement screw, it can be problematic.

When these pianos were strung in the factory, the strings were precut and probably done by machine. The cut has to be much more precise than that of a regular piano. When restringing these pianos, it is almost impossible to get the end of each screw to line up with each other like a factory job. The most important thing is to cut the strings short enough so that there is room for pitch raising in years to come. If the screws reach their end and you keep turning, they will break off. If it is cut too long, it isn't worth cutting and putting back; it is much easier to put a new string on. The metal piece that holds the screws in place holds the screws nice and tight so tuning is very easy. When you restring this piano, the slight differences in string length cause the screws to be a little loose in the metal piece. When tuning, as you turn the screw to add tension the screw pushes to the right, and when you loosen the screw turns to the left, making it seem like you are tuning a piano with jumping tuning pins. The specs for tuning a factory strung piano are as follows: "Always tune with upward movement of the screw. When a string is too sharp, drop it below the desired pitch and draw up again, as the tendency of the string in these pianos is to sharp, not to flat, under a test blow".

If anyone has more insight on these pianos, or access to parts, please let me know, and I'll pass it along to anyone else who might need it.

While a magnetic tray or other magnetized surface is the best place to keep screws and other parts safe and organized as you work on a piano, many screws, hinge pins, etc. are brass or other non-ferrous materials. The squeeze-open rubber coin holders or a small purse are ideal for containing these small parts during repairs so that none are lost or misplaced.